Dinner at Likoké – Excitement (Les Vans, France)
Likoké is the name of the final chapter in Chef Piet Huysentruyt’s culinary career: a top restaurant located in Les Vans, Southern France.
For more information about the place, the chef, the food and the wines, please consult our lunch report here.
The chef loves to use ingredients from his childhood combined with modern touches, and serves his tasty dishes in a six or nine course tasting menu or à la carte. For dinner we had the extended 9 course tasting menu.
The appetizers are modern creations based on two ingredients from the Ardèche:
Olives and sausage (see description in our lunch report).
Creme brulee of foie gras and black pudding, beetroot and marinated green apple
Razor, celeriac, granny smith apple, radish and celery with Jonagold frozen with nitrogen
Cold gazpacho with mozzarella, crunchy pistachio praline with ratatouille vegetables and basil pesto
Bread: Fresh crusty bread with chestnut flour, butter pigs trip, three olive oils
Moambe (tribute to Piet his father): Congolese stew with chicken, peanuts, palm butter. Here Chicken sot-l’y laisse, chicken liver, chicken stomach, palm tapenade, tapioca, chicken crisp, pepperoni, banana cream
Wine 1: Rose, Gris Cabernet, 2012, IGP Coteaux de l’Ardèche
“Salad is not a salad”: prepared in a wooden sphere of cedar, the salad is mixed with an infusion of coconut oil and summer truffles, hot vinegar, and shaken at the table. After that herbs, radish sprouts, root sprouts, artichokes, anchovies, mint mayonnaise, pickled pig nose with capers, sorrel, summer truffle and frozen milk are added. It is served with another bowl: the “inverted” salad: a salad with a fritter of pig nose, flan of peas, capers and citron verbena, almond milk foam and summer truffle. Spectacular.
Wine 2: WW, Sauvignon Blanc, 2012, Coteaux de l’Ardeche, Cevennes Trias
Trout, crayfish, boulders of smoked trout, juice of fennel, marinated fennel, nori fingers, salty fingers. Side dish: cucumber, trout tartar, lardo, oyster leaf, crispy pork, fennel.
Wine 3: Rose, 2012, Chateau Puech-Haut Cuvee Prestige, Saint-Drezery
Sea bass, 3x imposed cherry, cherry sauce, yogurt cream, terrine of foie gras, cows udder, bronze fennel, marjoram flower.
Wine 4: Rose, Orelie 2012, IGP Ardèche, cave cooperatives
Veal with foam of langoustine, fried sweetbreads, coffee, foie gras, morels and asparagus. Juice of calf-morel-sherry-cardamom.
Wine 5: RW, Chateauneuf Du Pape, Chateau de Vaudieu, 2007
Licking Plate Likoké: Fries – stew. Meat from the tail of calf, crumble bread, snot of onion, thick fry fried in ox fat. (Likoké also refers to ‘licking is OK’ in Flemish. For Piet, licking a plate clean is the biggest compliment a chef can get from his guests. And indeed, you will be licking plates when visiting Likoké).
Beer : Cevennes Mountains Ale (based on chestnut honey)
Goat cheese and fig, snow of goat milk ( 2 years fermented), fresh sorrel sorbet, figs, tartelette, syrup of acacia honey, macadamia crumble.
Wine 7: Hydromel des Duides 2011, Banne Ardèche, based on honey
Melon, sorbet of green peppers, roasted paprika, burned paprika and butter meringue with caramel.
Wine 8: Dernière vendages, 2012, Champetier
Espuma of ceps, elderflower vinegar, syrup of acacia flowers, red fruit sorbet and berries
Coffee & sweets: Buttermilk Wafers mother with bull butter, chocolate saucissons, marzipan
Belgian Taste Buds:
– Food Buds 8.5/10
– Wine Pairing Buds 8/10
– Price/Quality Buds 9/10
– Service Buds 8/10
– Experience Buds 9/10
7 Route de Païolive
07140 Les Vans
Phone: +33 627 83 98 57
Nearest airport: Lyon
Nearest train station: Valence